I have a MasterCraft rotating laser level. This thing is incredibly handy for laying out partitions or T-bar ceilings but the one thing that always bugged me is that the rotation speed is to fast, even in the slowest setting. I brought it into the shop today and added a 2 position switch onto the DC feed to the rotation motor. One side is a straight connection, the other side directs the current through a pot, all I had in the shop was a 1k , 10-turn but a 10 - 20ohm, 2 turn would have been perfect.
Cheers
Rob
Thursday, August 15, 2013
Friday, August 9, 2013
DIY Motorcycle Gear Position Indicator (GPI)
Well, I finally got around to building a Gear Position Indicator (GPI) for my Suzuki V-strom motorcycle.
The project was based on the superb design and PIC programming skills of Pat at WhiskeyTangoHotel.com
Thanks Pat.
I pondered for a while, thinking how/where I was gonna mount the 7 seg display and came up with this setup. Its no perfect but very functional and looks kinda cool.
First, I used the plastic casing from a capacitor that was about the correct size and cut it into shape.
Then I found a clear plastic cover to go over the 7 seg display.
Determined the color code and cct config, completed the soldering to the 7 seg display, made a back cover from a scrap peice of plastic layin round the shop and finally glued everything together using epoxy.
This is where I had a bit of problem, well more like an oversight on my part.. "THE SIDE STAND NEEDS TO BE UP" for this pink wire to send the proper feedback voltages to the cct, if the side stand is not up, the voltages will not be correct and the GPI will not work. Note to self:: This is what happens when you read a cct description and your brain skips the last part of the sentence because it assumes it knows it...!!!
The project was based on the superb design and PIC programming skills of Pat at WhiskeyTangoHotel.com
Thanks Pat.
I pondered for a while, thinking how/where I was gonna mount the 7 seg display and came up with this setup. Its no perfect but very functional and looks kinda cool.
First, I used the plastic casing from a capacitor that was about the correct size and cut it into shape.
Then I found a clear plastic cover to go over the 7 seg display.
Determined the color code and cct config, completed the soldering to the 7 seg display, made a back cover from a scrap peice of plastic layin round the shop and finally glued everything together using epoxy.
The cct/box assy went under the seat. I already had a 12v relay setup under there to power my 12v accessory plug using the tail light as a trigger so I just hooked up the cct to that output and it comes on when I turn the key.
This is where I had a bit of problem, well more like an oversight on my part.. "THE SIDE STAND NEEDS TO BE UP" for this pink wire to send the proper feedback voltages to the cct, if the side stand is not up, the voltages will not be correct and the GPI will not work. Note to self:: This is what happens when you read a cct description and your brain skips the last part of the sentence because it assumes it knows it...!!!
I mounted the display with 2way tape onto the side of the brake fluid canister (made a little funky pizza shape wedge out of rubber to angle the display slightly).
The big test will be the waterproof test.
Note: As you may have noticed, the cct above has a temp sensing function that I did not implement on my design because I didn't have a waterproof switch and housing on hand but I plan on adding this part later on, maybe that will be next years "farkling around" session.
Note: As you may have noticed, the cct above has a temp sensing function that I did not implement on my design because I didn't have a waterproof switch and housing on hand but I plan on adding this part later on, maybe that will be next years "farkling around" session.
Cheers and happy trails.
Rob
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